Mountain Lion(ess) in the Mist

I've been thinking quite a lot if I should even write this post as again, it involves breaching the ‘rules’. And yeah, again, I’ve behaved a bit stupid. I suppose I always write when I have behaved a bit stupid. Coz why should I boast about myself being the best or the ‘wise’ one? Not least, this kind of things needs English...

So there I was, in the mountains, blessed with amazing weather on Friday, expecting significant deterioration for Saturday and Sunday, so no plans. We set off for a road trip to the kids’ grandparents at the end of the world (right by the Polish border), hoping for a short run with my buddy P., we managed 8km at least. No rain, such a shame, we could have gone for a hike. However, we had fun and even managed to go to wellness in the evening. Sunday was a proper rainy day, I went for a run that turned out to be disastrous as it was raining the whole time and I was out of breath and my legs were sore... Anyway, I had a good one after all, with a bit of hill work, loads of slippery stones and roots and awesome views on the waterfalls of Studený potok. Every single moment of the ‘dreich’ weather enjoyed – checked :)

on the way to Osturňa
Monday was supposed to be much better. And so I read on some website that Belianske Tatry should be accessible all year long now. Then I decided to take a bus to Ždiar in the morning and go for one of my favourite hikes where I hadn't been for some ten years now – all the way up Monkova dolina to Široké sedlo, then to Kopske sedlo and down to Zelené pleso. Usually I take the path further up to Svistovka and Skalnate pleso, but now it is closed, of course. But I expected quite stable weather for Monday and as I had already said, I supposed the path through Monkova dolina would be opened.

It started all in the morning. How surprising – I was running late for the bus :) So I came to the bus stop all sweat and red like a tomato, but I made it – found my seat, had decent breakfast and enjoyed the views as it started raining. When we came to Zdiar, I was not sure where the path starts, so when I saw a green tourist sign, I got off. Bought two big poppy buns and found out that not only was it raining, I even managed to get off on a wrong stop and had to walk quite a good while longer to get to the place where the right green mark started. I wasn't that surprised to realize that there was nobody but me there. But when I walked all the way to the path in the woods, the sign said it was closed till mid-June, of course. Whatever, there are no buses back, let’s do it :)

The weather was pretty shitty, to be honest. The light drizzle had stopped, but there was light fog, humidity pretty high, the path surprisingly... slippery and tough, as usual. It always surprises me here. The hike is not one of the toughest, it doesn't go very high, however, it’s no easy walk, steep climb, the steps are high, rocky, slippery, the mud slides in some parts... But the scenery is definitely worth it. The valley, or maybe better, the canyon of Riglovy potok offers amazing sceneries, with unusual wild flora. As I am progressing up, I get quite soaked in the humid air, hoping for the skies to clear up according to the forecast and bring me some sun. But when I get to the spring pass and cross it, the path goes further into the fog and it is mostly covered in wet snow.

I am considering my options and decide to progress up, as far as the path allows me. There are some old traces visible there so I don’t feel that insecure. Someone has gone there before me. And clearly knew their way.

Nevertheless, I lose the path very soon, it appears in the wet snow from time to time, but sometimes it’s completely gone, and so are the traces. So I just keep the direction up, try to find some ‘secure’ points and check that I have at least the tourist mark or the traces. As you would expect, the situation is getting a bit more complicated. There is more snow and I get to the fields where there is mostly snow, shouldn't be deep, but I can only guess, it’s the upper part of the valley between the hill ‘Hlúpy’ (which, as you know, means stupid, which is just what I am today...) and ‘Ždiarska vidla’ and as I am not familiar with the snow mountaineering (and I don’t have any avalanche kit inside of my buddy, Mr. Pieps), I’m just wondering if the snow will hold and if I can safely progress on the field. So I try to find any places where I can see either rocks or mountain pines or grass and lichen so that I know there’s no more snow underneath, but firm ground. I keep the direction up and try to follow the traces if I can see them. At some points, I’m looking up ahead of me and see only snow and grey fog or clouds, sometimes grey shadows of the rocks. I can guess the rocky slope of Hlúpy and try to keep more on its side, rather than go towards Zdiarska vidla, which I know is much higher and the rocks a bit more dangerous.

At some points it seems that the clouds might be blown a bit away and the sun shines through, but it’s only like seconds.

one of the rare moments under Široké sedlo In these rare moments, I look cautiously around, still checking the terrain, the skies, still very much aware of the fact that I can go back in my own traces if I need, that no sudden snow or rain is coming, but that it would be shortest to get up to the saddle. In these moments I’m calling myself stupid, but focus 100%, legs are getting really tired in the wet snow and the head doesn’t make them lighter. Adrenaline level is up, however, I start to feel tired of going up, not knowing how much further. In some moments I can see a bit around, so I know I’m going the right way (for a few metres I even find the tourist path under the snow with the red mark on some of the rocks! yay!), but I can see that I’m basically heading straight up to the saddle and I’m not sure it’s the best path. I check the time and I’m not that slow, although I feel it’s been like ages. However, there’s one substantial thing that keeps me going up and further. Every now and then, the skies ‘clear up’ a bit, again and again, and I think of God or whoever is there and likes me, that maybe I am meant to be here, learn this lesson in modesty, maybe it’s my guardian (arch)angel that never lets me fall too deep. I thank to the heavens and pray for the sun to come back again and shine through the clouds. It eventually hides back and there are only grey clouds and fog around again, but suddenly I see the traces get to the horizon and cannot see a s*it behind.

what's behind the horizon? But when I get there, I can see the path, the wooden bars and the information board and the guidepost. A whoop of joy in the fog, a huge rock has fallen off my heart and I thank God that I have made it. I’m at Široké sedlo, now it’s gonna be fun! I eat a half of polomacene susenky that I bought in Zdiar (these ones from Sedita are simply the best).

It is not, of course, as I find the path towards Kopske sedlo, in a few moments I find myself lost again, on a steep slope with a pretty deep scarp under me. I try to find the path again, heading up blind, when I hear some voices from the right. They are a bit over me, so I keep climbing the grassy slope (fortunately there’s very little snow left here) up and after a few metres I find the path! And three young lads (suppose around 18) heading towards me. I ask them where they’re heading and they say that to Zdiarska vidla. Well, laddies, it ain’t no easy path, there’s fog all around, no path visible... But they say the skies are gonna clear up. I look up and see only grey clouds. You sure? Well, if you say so, I’m no mom to you, won’t play bossy boots here and tell you cannot go. And I let them go and walk further, finally following the path in the right direction, not losing it again. The surrounding is superfrozen, covered with icy crystals in amazing dagger-like shapes created by the strong winds blowing between the two passes.

Nižné Kopské sedlo As I head down from Vysne Kopske sedlo and get to Nizne Kopske sedlo, the skies clear up a bit, really, but only on this side of the ridge. Suppose the boys will be either walking (and possibly climbing) in clouds or they will have to turn back. But now I care too little for them. The adrenaline level gets down, I feel relieved as I get to the spot from where I can see the valley of Zelene pleso and the beautiful ridge of Svistovka and the majestic Jahnaci stit (one of the few accessible peaks in HT I haven’t been to yet), yet exhausted at the same time.

view on Veľká Svišťovka

His Majesty Jahňací štít The way down is much more enjoyable and the sun starts shining and warms me up a bit, however, I am very glad when I finally reach the cottage (it’s quite a long path, actually) and buy a decent mug of sweet hot chocolate and something to eat. I change my T-shirt and sunbathe for a while, resting in the sun, but after a few moments I set off and go down the valley. It’s a long way to go after all. I usually say it’s pretty boring. Not this time. Walking in the snow is not boring and I walk quite fast so it doesn’t feel that bad. At one moment I stop over and dip my legs into the freezing water of the mountain spring, sitting on a large stone, have a rest and eat the rest of the sweets.

chill-out @ Kežmarská Biela voda
When I get down to the bus stop, I try to stop some of the cars heading for Tatranska Lomnica, but there are too few and none of them is willing to take me so I walk all the way there. I finally reach the mobile network again and get bit of a telling-off that I'd been up there all alone. Yes, that is basically what I've been thinking about most of the way. I've been considering the options and what I've done and how the conditions have been, and yes, how lucky I've been, of course, and that is why I am actually writing all this. So that I remember, so that anybody can read it and no, don't get inspired, quite the contrary, please, think twice before you go anywhere alone. Especially in the mountains. I admit, I'd been checking the conditions pretty carefully all the way up, I'd been sure I'd be able to turn back in case of need, but there's no such thing as 'be sure' in the mountains, especially in the high and unpredictable ones. And if you think HTs are no proper mountains and that you are experienced and übercool and nothing can happen - go to Popradske pleso, have a stopover at Symbolický cintorín and take a good look at all the memorials. Even the best of the best can fail when they face the power of the nature. The mountains have been here looong before us, after all. :)